Understanding Russia through Everyday Life
Week Three: 27 June – 3 July
Week three and we are becoming immersed in Russian life. Each of us lives
with a host family, and we gather at the American Home for lessons. Click
on day to see what we did. Click on a picture to view it actual size. To
read what each of us think about our experience read the captions, or visit
Teacher's Comments.
Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday
Monday, 28 June
This morning
we learned about Russian political history and the Russian people’s
perception of Putin and his foreign policy. We then toured the Vladimir
City Administration Building and had lunch in the canteen. Later
we heard presentations from the first deputy mayor and the chair
of the City Soviet.
A buffet lunch at the City Administration Building
canteen.
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The deputy
mayor and chair of the City Soviet address the FGPA teachers. |
Tuesday, 29 June
Today
was awesome. We focused on law in Russia and experienced insightful
presentations by both a defense attorney and a prosecutor. Included
in that discussion was a reflection on the new role of the jury
in Russia. We visited a prison museum (a very sober moment for me),
then met with officials at the Vladimir Juridical Institute, a "sophisticated"
police academy.
.—Jill Acker, The Latin School of Chicago
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Here we are outside the Vladimir Central Prison, where U-2 pilot
Francis Gary Powers and a number of famous Russians from the tsarist
and Soviet periods were interred. |

Pat, Joe, and Patrice with law enforcement officers in the prison
museum. Lt. Col. Anna Kulikova, pictured center, was one of the
first participants in the law enforcement exchange program at the
University of Illinois Police Training Institute in 1994. |

Counterfeit money drawn by hand and from memory by inmates at the
prison. |

A hollowed-out book containing handmade weapons, in the prison museum. |

Jessica, Patrice, and Chris beside an example of an officer's uniform.

Mark Johnson and Jeff with a cadet at the Vladimir Juridical Institute,
where Anna Kulikova is an instructor. |
Wednesday, 30 June
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Today began with a
discussion of the Russian political situation with Percy Gurvitch,
a highly respected professor of foreign languages at the Vladimir
State Pedagogical University. He spent time in the Stalinist camps
and was a personal witness to much of Russia's history, both before
and after the fall of the Soviet Union. |
| Mark Johnson with a girl
in the "computer lab" at the detskii sad (preschool)
we visited today. Over 160 children attend the preschool, ranging
in age from one through seven. |

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Patrice shares a video with one of the children and a staff
member at the preschool.
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Pat
looks over a map with some of the children at the preschool. They
know their geography — probably better than many American
students!
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Thursday, 1 July
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Today the group visited the town of Vyazniki (population 40,000),
which is normally about a 90-minute drive east of Vladimir, on the
road to Nizhnii Novgorod. However, we were slowed down today first
by a religious procession — as a cherished icon was being
carried from Vladimir to Bogolubovo (Mark Johnson and Joe got up
in time to see it leave the city). We were then further slowed down
by extensive road work. We ended up taking back roads when returning
to Vladimir later in the day!
In Vyazniki we visited School No. 2. The "teaching methods"
faculty at the Vladimir State Pedagogical University has close ties
with this school. There was an extensive, and very interesting,
interchange between the Russian and American teachers.
The school was founded in 1807. In addition to its status as a
highly-regarded experimental institution, School No. 2 is known
for several famous Russians who attended it. These include cosmonaut
Valeri Kubasov, one of the participants in the 1975 joint Russian-American
Apollo-Soiuz space mission.

Mark Johnson with two young ladies who greeted us with the bread
and salt. They made their own costumes. (The folk costume design
students from School No. 2 won the grand prize in a recent international
contest in Moscow).
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Jason receives bread and salt, the traditional Russian folk welcome.

Tatyana Markelova, the director of School No. 2, thanks Jeff for
bringing her a letter from one of her former teachers — who
happens to be a friend of Jeff's host family.
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Ron Pope, the trip director, presents basketballs to School No.
2 director Tatyana Markelova. The basketballs were provided by the
ISU women's team and were carried to Vladimir in the group's luggage
— which almost didn't make it!
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A "grandfather" taking a rest from cutting grass for his
goats.
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The group on a cliff overlooking the Klyazma
River, which also flows through Vladimir. |
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The contrast between an early 20th century merchant's dacha (summer
home) and a new brick home in Vyazniki. There is quite a bit of new
construction in this area. |
A church in a working monestary in Mstyora, a village located
about 20 km north of the Vladimir-Nizhnii Novgorod highway. It is
noted for its icon and lacquer box painting, as well as other handicrafts.
The group was only able to make a brief stop here because of travel
delays earlier in the day.
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Friday, 2 July
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Today
started with a Russian lesson on food. As with the previous Russian
lessons, Nelli Mukhamadieva was assisted by a language student.
This was followed by a presentation on women in Russian society
by Yelena Klimova — who also happens to be Jill's host. After
lunch in the "Z Club," which includes a new 6-lane bowling
alley, the group visited the Youth Education and Health Center.
This organization provides a variety of informational programs and
counseling services for students, their parents, and educators.
(While the Center is financed out of the City budget, they take
a great amount of initiative on their own and have worked out a
number of very successful original programs).
At the "tea" at the end of our visit
to the Youth Palace everyone sang a Russian folk song, called "Oy
Moroz, Moroz," that the group had learned during one of their
Russian lessons. (The Russians did not need a "cheat sheet"
to remember the words!)

Russian lessons
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Jill and her host, Yelena Klimova.

Jill taking notes at the Youth Palace. The young woman she is questioning
has attended this palace since she was five years old. She spent
a year in Oregon during high school, and did an excellent job of
interpreting.
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We were treated to a very nice small concert
by members of the vocal music club at the Youth Palace. This young
lady sang about the rain and her favorite puppy. |
The
group — along with the kids who performed for us, and the
Palace staff.

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Saturday, 3 July
Our first stop today was in the village of Larionova, which is a few kilometers
off the main road between Vladimir and Moscow.
This village was once a part of the Varantsov estate. They were one of the
most prominent noble families in pre-revolutionary Russia.
At one time they held more than 20,000 serfs.

Ruslan, a freelance photographer, who has been with the group several
times. Unfortunately, he was able to get just one article —
with a single photo — published in the Vladimir edition of Komsomolskaya
pravda. However, our group did receive a good deal of attention
from local TV and radio in particular. |
Terry
taking a picture of a group of very curious kids who are being treated
for asthma at the sanitorium housed in the former Varantsov mansion.
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The Varantsov family chapel. |
Jessica checks
out a loom in a very interesting small museum and art gallery in the
city of Pokrov. Pokrov, which is about an hour's drive from Vladimir
on the road to Moscow, is the home of a large — and very successful
— Kraft Foods chocolate factory. The museum, which includes
a section on Kraft Foods, was organized by a local teacher and her
students without any government funding. The teachers were impressed
by the displays.
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Jill looks at a painting done in the "Vladimir style." |
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A bread and salt greeting at the restaurant in
Pokrov where we had a very nice lunch. This restaurant's management
has the right idea when it comes to creating an atmosphere that will
be attractive to tourists! |
We were briefed on a large scale private farming operation that we
visited on our way back to Vladimir from Pokrov. The main investor
in this multimillion-dollar project was originally from England. He
has been living in Russia for 13 years and is now a Russian citizen.
Unfortunately, he wasn't available to meet with us today.
The farm is mainly a dairy operation. They have more than 700 head
of cows now and are building facilities that will allow them to add
more than 1,000 more head. They are very proud of the fact that at
almost 6,000 liters of milk per year per cow, their production is
more than double that for the other dairy farms in the region. |
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Teacher's Comments:
I am personally grateful to Ron for all of his guidance during our
Fulbright trip and to my host family. Their generosity, kindness and
patience make this incredible experience a meaningful cultural exchange.
—Jill Acker, The Latin School of Chicago, Chicago, Illinois.
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